Setting Frames on the Jig

I started building the jig in June 2020 and had it mostly constructed within a few days. It took me another couple of weeks to complete a bunch of other tasks before my frames were ready. It was August when I was finally ready to set the frames on the jig.

The waterline isn't marked on all frames, at least not on both sides. So I first drew waterline and centreline on all frames on both fore and aft sides. This allowed me to use a laser level to position the frames very accurately. I started at the bow and then moved aft. Some frames are not "see through" so you need to make sure you have the frames in front of it positioned at the right height and centred before you move back. I started with the stem, then moved back and positioned frames E, D and D1.

Frames B & C don't have their own support posts so I skipped them and moved aft to position frame A. I then had to figure out how to wrangle bunk sides into place and when I finally managed to do it I realised I had to take it apart again, because you need to thread frame C through the bunk sides BEFORE you fit it. This is another step in the process where assistance from a friend or two is really helpful. When my friends weren't around I used a ladder and some rope to support the bunk sides. Once the bunk sides are installed you can pretty much be certain that you have the spacing between frames A to D1 correct. Last I installed transom frame. The challenge with this frame is that it sits above the waterline so you can't use that to confirm height is correct. At this stage, I installed cockpit side panels and that can somewhat help with height adjustment.

Lastly, I installed the knee between frame E and the stem. I had to remove some material around the base that slots into the notch in frame E so it fits nicely.

It's worthwhile double-checking everything at this stage as this step is critical and if the frames are misaligned the whole boat will later be twisted, lopsided or otherwise banana-shaped. A laser level on an adjustable tripod is really helpful. I had a really tall tripod that allowed me to position it above the boat facing downwards so I could double-check the centreline and I also double-checked height or waterline from different angles. Jim Schofield also recommended I mark the waterline on the walls for later use but I found that really impractical in my shed since the walls are rough and it's next to impossible to draw anything on the bricks. I also used a spirit level to confirm that all frames were indeed still plumb.